A Reckoning in Rishikesh – The Bali Epiphany
September 2024, Rishikesh
As I sat by the Ganges watching the sunrise over the Himalayas my mind kept drifting back to Bali - a place I've loved, a place I've questioned, and now a place I feel called to engage with differently.
Maya Angelou's words echoed in my thoughts: "When you know better do better."
For years Bali has been on my list as a potential retreat destination - its lush landscapes, vibrant culture and deep spirituality have always drawn me in. But so have the headlines about overtourism, environmental destruction and the exploitation of local communities. This time instead of ignoring those concerns I sat with them. I researched. And what I uncovered left me horrified.
The Dark History Behind Bali's Paradise Myth
The Bali we know today as a "tropical paradise" was carefully constructed - a colonial marketing strategy designed to benefit outsiders not locals. After violently conquering the island in the early 20th century, Dutch colonisers rebranded Bali as an "exotic Eden" for western tourists. They promoted white sand beaches, pristine nature and "mystical" spirituality - all while exploiting Balinese labour and resources.
Traditional dances, ceremonies and temples were repackaged as tourist attractions, stripped of their sacred meaning and turned into performances for foreign consumption. This commodification severed cultural practices from their spiritual roots, reducing them to entertainment. Meanwhile colonial rule drained wealth from the island, leaving locals impoverished while westerners profited.
Modern Exploitation in the Name of Wellness
Fast forward to today and little has changed - only the exploiters are now foreign entrepreneurs not colonial rulers. Ubud, once a quiet cultural hub, has become a playground for western tourists dominated by yoga studios, vegan cafés and wellness retreats catering to foreigners seeking "enlightenment".
I've visited Ubud many times over the years and watched it transform. Most yoga studios and wellness spaces are foreign-run, meaning profits flow out of Bali rather than supporting Balinese families. Meanwhile Balinese workers often earn poverty wages serving tourists who pay premium prices for "transformational" experiences.
The Environmental Catastrophe of Overtourism
The toll of mass tourism is undeniable:
⚠️ Bali generates 175,000 tonnes of waste daily, much of it polluting beaches, rivers and streets
⚠️ Rapid overdevelopment has led to deforestation, habitat destruction and critical water shortages as resorts and villas drain local resources
⚠️ The island's infrastructure is buckling under the weight of millions of visitors while locals face rising costs of living and cultural erosion
Rishikesh: A Mirror of Bali's Downfall?
Sitting here in Rishikesh, I see unsettling parallels - new construction, growing piles of garbage and spiritual traditions being repackaged for tourist consumption. While it hasn't yet reached Bali's extreme levels of overtourism, the warning signs are clear. Both places, revered as sacred havens, are being loved to death by unchecked tourism.
A New Way Forward: Regenerative Retreats
But awareness is the first step toward change. The answer isn't to abandon these places - it's to engage differently. That's why The Big Love Retreats is committed to:
☘️ Prioritising Balinese-owned businesses to ensure profits stay in local hands
☘️ Partnering with environmental initiatives to offset waste and water impact
☘️ Respecting cultural traditions without turning them into performances
☘️ Creating true reciprocity - where tourism heals not harms
Bali doesn't need another retreat that drains its resources - it needs one that restores them. And that's exactly what we're building.
Sacred change needs sacred action. Where will you begin?
Join the Bali waiting circle (First dibs + exclusive pre-launch ritual)
Learn the daily practice that sustains our team (Desmond Tutu’s laugh meditation + more)
P.S. The reckoning isn’t coming - it’s already here. Are you in?"
